The Official Glasair Support Site

Q301: What is the Experimental category, and what types of aircraft are classified/operated in that category?
Q302: What is a kit airplane versus a plans-built airplane?
Q303: What separates a homebuilt from an ultralight?
Q304: Why would someone want to build and fly a homebuilt when perfectly good certified aircraft are available?
Q305: What is the 51% rule, and how does it affect me?
Q306: What are some common experimental types, kit-built or not?
Q307: What are the tradeoffs of metal vs wood vs composites?
Q308: What types of engines can I use?
Q309: Why do pilots get so upset over the choices between two and four stroke engines?
Q310: Can I use non-certified props?
Q311: How do I license my completed airplane, and what inspections are needed?
Q312: How are registration numbers assigned, and can I choose one?
Q313: Can I type-certify my airplane?
Q314: If I sell the airplane, am I liable for it later?
Q315: What operations are illegal in my homebuilt that might not be in a type-certified airplane?
Q316: What happens if I buy a homebuilt that I didn't build?
Q317: Can I insure a homebuilt airplane?
Q318: Am I safe flying a homebuilt airplane?
Q319: What health hazards might be involved while building?
Q320: What design should I choose?
Q321: Where can I see one of my choices, and can I fly one?
Q322: How long will it take to finish?
Q323: How do I know if I can afford it?
Q324: What tools and facilities will I need?
Q325: Will my marriage survive?
Q326: How do my maintenance costs compare to a certified airplane?
Q327: Who is the EAA, and what do they offer me? How can I join, and are there any local builder clubs?
Q328: Where can I find parts or materials for my project?
Q329: Can I find more written info?
Q330: Are there any BBS'es where I can get more info?
Q331: Is there anyone on Usenet who knows about the GarageRocket 432?
Q332: I'm having trouble with construction, where can I get help?
Q333: What financing is available for building a plane?
Q334: Can I take lessons/get my license in my homebuilt?


Q301: What is the Experimental category, and what types of aircraft are classified/operated in that category?

A The Experimental category is essentially an "operating classification" that has a legal bearing on the operation of the aircraft, just like Normal, Utility, or Aerobatic categories have.  There are several sub-classifications in the category, such as Amateur-built, Racing, Exhibition, Limited, R & D, and others.

Experimental/amateur-built aircraft refer to non-type-certified aircraft that are built, maintained, and flown by individuals, thus the term "homebuilt". Amateur-built aircraft are intended by the FAA to serve as educational "vehicles" for their builders and pilots.

The original justification for making the category legal was that it increased the pool of individuals knowledgeable in the area of aircraft production. Thus the nation had "experts" in aircraft production to draw upon in times of national emergency. Silly as this may sound today, it was taken seriously in the mid '50s when the category addition was being proposed.

Note that a type-certified airplane may also be re-categorized as experimental if it's modified in a form such that the FAA will not approve on a standard 337. This is often the case for prototype/modified certified aircraft, or for highly specialized    applications (although these are often categorized as "Restricted" too).

Q302: What is a kit airplane versus a plans-built airplane?

A:    Kit airplanes are aircraft designs that are sold as a package of parts and subassemblies to be assembled by the owner. They are primarily a market response to the lack of new and affordable type-certified production aircraft. The kit attempts to strike a balance between those desiring a finished airplane, versus those wanting to build. They also allow people to build a new aircraft when they  may not possess the time or ability to build from scratch. Cost of  a kit airplane is generally higher than that of plans-built.

The "plans-built" aircraft is scratch built from a set of engineering drawings only, the builder makes most all of the parts
from raw materials. This was the "original" form of homebuilding. These take longer to complete than a kit airplane, but can also be less expensive and more rewarding to those who enjoy building. For  the popular designs, quite a few prefab parts do exist, especially  the ones that are too difficult or costly to fabricate yourself.

The term "kitplane" is commonly used for kit aircraft, but the term itself is trademarked by KITPLANES magazine.

Q303: What separates a homebuilt from an ultralight?

A:    Ultralights and Experimentals may both be built by the owner, but the ultralight may carry no passengers (except for instruction). It  also has limits on weight, speed, and fuel, which the homebuilt has  none of (outside of operating restrictions in part 91).

Often, licensed ultralight owners have chosen to obtain airworthiness certificates so that they can overcome one or more of these restrictions. This reclassifies the ultralight as an experimental, and the pilot certificate, medical, and currency requirements become effective.

Q304: Why would someone want to build and fly a homebuilt when perfectly good certified aircraft are available?

A: In a sense, Cessnas & Pipers can be compared to older Chevys and Fords, in that they attempt to be "all things to all people". Such compromises may be acceptable for most, but not all pilots.

One of the remarkable things about homebuilts is the sheer diversity of designs & intended purposes. There are some compact aircraft that store in your garage and fly off of any short field. Right next to it might be another that carries 4 people 300mph at 18,000 ft. Next to that one is one that cost less that $10K to build. Another could be flown in unlimited-class aerobatics.

Note that your garden variety Skyhawk can't do any of these things, but it's still a quite a useful & desirable airplane. It all
depends  on what you want it to do.

Q305: What is the 51% rule, and how does it affect me?

A: In order for an aircraft to qualify as amateur-built, at least half  the work must be done by the builder, less than half may be performed by a kit supplier or other outside sources.

The genesis of this rule surrounded the original Christen Eagle kit. An FAA official insisted that Frank Christenson's biplane kit was too complete, that the builder didn't need to do enough work.  Frank went to some length to prove to the FAA that this wasn't true.

Now the FAA maintains a list of "approved" kits that have been proven to comply with the 51% rule. Note that a kit does *not* need to be on the list to be legally sold, it just serves as proof to the FAA that the type complies with the rule. Some kit suppliers opt not to put their products on the list, the reason being that once approved, any changes to the product require reapproval by  the FAA. If your kit is not on the list, you will have to prove 51% compliance at inspection time.

The inspector does his job based on a set of guidelines published in the "inspectors handbook" issued by the FAA to their field inspectors. The guidelines for the 51% rule are established in this  handbook. All decisions made by the inspector are effectively determinations "by the Administrator" (if you're familiar with the   FARs, you'll understand the phrase immediately.

The "51% approved" list is available from the FAA's experimental  safety BBS in Oke City, see the number listed. Compliance decisions  that determine listed kits are made by an engineering group  internal to the FAA.

Q306: What are some common experimental types, kit-built or not?

A:    Glasair, Kitfox, Velocity, Cozy, EZ, Van's RV series, Europa...

Q307: What are the tradeoffs of metal vs wood vs composites?

A: This can be a heated subject amongst builders, we'll try to approach the subject generally and gracefully.

Metal construction has the widest acceptance by the non-aviating public. It is relatively simple to work with, and is inexpensive. A metal structure is strong and of moderate weight and cost. But with improper care it corrodes, and recent events (like the Hawaiian 737 that lost it's top) have reminded us that metal does have a finite fatigue life.

Wood is the oldest aircraft structural material, but has a poor public acceptance. The strength-to-weight ratio and fatigue
resistance of wood is excellent, the problem is simply its susceptability to rot. Properly protected and stored, a wooden
airframe will last decades. But if not cared for, it will be destroyed in a few short years. Wood also tends to be expensive,
  and the supply is erratic.

Composites, "compost" jokes aside, have received much attention  recently from private and commercial builders alike, largely due to  work done a few years ago by Burt Rutan. Composite aircraft can be   quite strong structurally, and be built at very reasonable costs.  The airplanes have very low drag figures and beautiful finishes.  It is easy to work with. But there are concerns about longevity of  the material. Most resins create an airframe that must be painted  white to prevent excessive heat buildup in the sunshine, since epoxies and vinylesters soften significantly with an increase in
temperature.

All methods are perfectly viable. Which one you choose all depends on your preferences, abilities, and your needs for the airplane.

Q308: What types of engines can I use?

A: Literally any! For years, homebuilders have relied on certified engines. But as the cost of these engines rises, alternatives have been found. Several companies are building specialty engines specifically for experimental use, and others are hard at work adapting automotive engines.

The Rotax engines have received lots of attention. There are both two and four stroke geared engines for experimental use and most are water cooled. All are fairly reasonable in cost compared to their certified counterparts. These products develop power in the 40 to 100hp category.

Some builder are enthusiastic about auto conversions, some are not. Early on, a few builders were pulling engines out of junked autos with poor results. Untuned engines were not ready for such  high-manifold pressure operations and suffered burnt plugs, blown pistons, etc. But other builders have taken the time to customize and tune auto engines to the application, and the results are improving. The all-aluminum small-block Chevrolet is becoming the poor-mans "Mini Merlin" and produces excellent power (not to   mention sound!). Some are also experimenting with Wankel-type  rotaries, as their power-to-weight ratio and physical compactness make them excellent candidates for aircraft use. Power in auto conversions can run from 80 to 400+ hp.

Water-cooled engines aside, builders have used air-cooled  Volkswagen conversions for years, and several companies are now producing parts and completed engines. One company (Mosler Engines) actually has one of their VW Type IV engines certified in   Australia. VW engines sound similar to their Lycoming or Continental counterparts but rev higher, in the 3100rpm range.  Modified stock crankshafts seem to show a tendency to break, but  the custom cranks do better (and cost more). Parts are usually reasonable (but notice I didn't say "cheap").

If you are looking for an IFR cruiser to carry passengers, it may be best to stick with certified engines and swallow the cost. But  if your purpose is a VFR weekend toy with good forced-landing options and you like to tinker with motors, you might consider a conversion. Again, your choice really depends on the mission.

A word of warning: When choosing a certified engine, the engine must be equipped and maintained as it normally would be for a certified aircraft. This means that all AD and bulletins must be  complied with. This can have some impact on your flight test   period. If you make any mods to such an engine, it will be  considered a non-certified engine for all intents and purposes by  the FAA, which will increase the test period from 25 to 40 hours.  It will also reduce the market value of an otherwise expensive engine.

Q309: Why do pilots get so upset over the choices between two and four stroke engines?

A: The four-stroke air-cooled engine has been the mainstay of light aviation for over 50 years and this shows no immediate signs of change. Yet some two-stroke designs have attracted strong followings in recent years. Why has this happened?

The two most obvious factors are probably cost and weight. A 65hp Rotax costs and weighs roughly 60% of its certified Continental A-65 counterpart. For the newer generation of "portable" lightplanes, this reduced weight is an obvious design advantage.   The owners of these types often have to be conservative with their  flying dollars as well, so the Rotax wins over many of them. When  they consider that it can be majored by the owner in his garage for a few hundred dollars in an afternoon, the decision is easily  made.

Yet there are pilots out there who think of the idea of a "chainsaw" engine as anathema to a proper aircraft. Improper
mixture control in a two-stroke can damage the engine quickly. The vibration through the airframe is of a higher pitch. The higher operating speed of the engine requires a geared speed reduction system. Probably the worst offense: the sound of two-stroke aircraft is simply unpleasant to some eardrums.

The reliability questions of two-strokes may have some basis. Then again, it is often found that problems resulted from improper installation, operation, or maintenance. Possibly there is truth here, since the $10,000 certified engine understandably gets "fussed" over considerably more. Its care and feeding are well understood by most pilots since we are usually trained behind such engines anyway.

Should you choose a two-stroke? Again, it all depends on your preferences and requirements. If you need more than 65hp, your decision is essentially made for now. But if it's a consideration for you, study your options and carefully evaluate your needs. Ride behind both and see if you're comfortable with them.

Q310: Can I use non-certified props?

A:    Absolutely. You can use certified, original, or modified props.

Q311: How do I license my completed airplane, and what inspections are needed?

A:    You *did* document the construction, didn't you?

Before you are issued an airworthiness certificate, an FAA inspector will require an inspection of the aircraft and all
documentation of its construction. They used to require a "pre-cover inspection of the internal structure, but no longer.
Now they prefer that in-progress inspections are done by an EAA  Technical Counselor, and the inspector will look for his/her comments in the construction log. When the FAA inspector arrives, they expect the aircraft to be ready for inspection (all covers removed), all taxi tests done and logged, and all documentation ready for review.

When the inspector is satisfied that your airplane is ready for inflight testing, they will issue a restricted airworthiness
certificate that describes a test period and testing requirements (or they may insist on changes or repairs if deficiencies are
noted). The testing period is usually 40 flying hours (often 25 if you use a certified engine & prop), and limits you to a fixed
testing area, normally a 25 mile radius from the home airport and over unpopulated areas. Passengers are not allowed during the testing period. While testing, keep a *detailed* log of all activities, repairs, and changes.

The inspector will evaluate your testing at the end of the test period, at which point he or she will issue a permanent
airworthiness certificate.  At that point, you are free to carry passengers and fly most anywhere you like.

If any major modifications or repairs are done later, the airplane may need a re-inspection and retest. Call your local FSDO before doing this to find out what they want to see.

You can also be issued a Repairmans Certificate for your airplane only (*not* the type in general). This allows you to perform all repairs, inspections, annuals, etc. on the airframe, since they figure if you built it, you should be able to fix it. Note that in FAR part 45, an "annual" is referred to as a "condition check", which is legally different from an "annual inspection", even if both actions are intended to accomplish the same goal.

Please note that the above information is valid only in the USA, other countries usually have very similar requirements, with some slight differences. Check with your local authorities before committing any large sums of money or time to a project.

Also note that this procedure is the general case. It is entirely possible that you may experience variations in the procedure. For instance, one netter commented that his inspector waived the second inspection and allowed standard experimental privileges immediately after the test time was flown off and logged. As FAA policy often varies between regions, expect some slight exceptions.

Q312: How are registration numbers assigned, and can I choose one?

A:    N numbers in the US are assigned by the FAA Aircraft Registry in Oklahoma City. You must get one assigned before you have your finished airplane inspected. It's sometimes suggested that you wait until about 6 months before estimated completion, since they will charge you an annual fee for reserving a number.

Requesting an assigned number will cost $5. If you want to request a special number, it costs $10. If you request one, they suggest you submit a list of choices, like 5 or so in order of your preference.

Q313: Can I type-certify my airplane?

A:    Not recommended. The costs are extremely prohibitive (which is often why the designers refuse to do it), and there is little benefit. Remember that the only major restriction on experimental operations is use of the aircraft for hire.

Q314: If I sell the airplane, am I liable for it later?

A:    Unfortunately, there is potential for a liability problem. Even though "free" legal advice is often available on the net, I advise you to contact your attorney if you find this issue troubling.

Some advocate having the buyer sign a "release form", which  would be promise not to sue if anything goes wrong.  These are essentially worthless... the buyer can't sign over his or her *spouse's* rights, nor those of any one he or she sells the airplane to.

Q315: What operations are illegal in my homebuilt that might not be in a type-certified airplane?

A:    Operations for hire are *expressly* forbidden - no paid cargo or passengers are permitted. Also, flight over densely populated areas is also against the regs, but this does not seem to be enforced strongly unless the "reckless operation" clause in part 91 is
called into play.

This is not as restrictive as you might think. Often clubs are formed around homebuilt aircraft, and it is legal for you to pay an instructor to give you a checkout or BFR in your airplane.

So in general, you can do most anything with your homebuilt that you can do with normal private pilot privileges.

Q316: What happens if I buy a homebuilt that I didn't build?

A:    You get poor, like all airplane owners :) Anyway, you will not be able to obtain a repairman certificate, since you didn't build the airplane.  The airplane can be inspected and maintained by an A&P... an Inspection Authorization is not required.  Also,  if the original owner retains his or her Repairman Certificate, they can continue working on your plane...that is, if you can talk them into it.

There is a "gentleman's agreement" between the FAA and EAA that allows the owner of a homebuilt to perform maintenance on the aircraft, as long as an A&P signs off the work within a year.  In other words, the A&P's annual inspection not only covers the inspection of the airplane, but it counts as the yearly signoff for work done by the owner in the past year.  An EAA article on
this agreement can be found at  http://www.halcyon.com/wanttaja/maint.html

Parts for kit airplanes may or may not be available depending on the source. For either kit or plans-built, one thing to insist upon is having the plans in your possession or available. This way should a part need to be fabricated later, you still have the specs to do it by.

Q317: Can I insure a homebuilt airplane?

A:    Yes you can. The insurance company may have their own requirements above the FARs, but they normally will insure one. You may find lower limits on passenger liability coverage though.

However, there is a growing problem with higher performance kit airplanes such as the Glasair III, Lancair IV, 320, and 235. Asignificant number of pilots have bought into these designs since they offer performance levels in excess of that available from
Wichita. In an unfortunate few cases there has been poor construction, and little to no training in aircraft that fly far ahead of the average 172 or Cherokee pilot.

One example of changes: Where fast kit airplanes are concerned, a major aviation insurance company is insisting on periodic construction inspections by company reps, and thorough checkouts in type (+10hrs) before they will underwrite a policy for that aircraft. Check this out before you make a commitment.

Q318: Am I safe flying a homebuilt airplane?

A:    You are as safe as you want to be. Little definitive data exists comparing homebuilts to certified aircraft. One set of opinions holds that accident rates are about the same for both certified and homebuilt aircraft, once the test period for the homebuilt is complete. Certified aircraft seem to have more unintentional IMC accidents, while homebuilts fare worse in accidents resulting from over-stress from aerobatics, forced landings, etc.

Safety is still a function of the pilots ability to make intelligent decisions, as with all aviation.

Q319: What health hazards might be involved while building?

A:    The most obvious hazards are those involved with common shop
      practices, such as wearing protective lenses, handling power tools
      properly, etc. Follow common sense in shop practice, and you should
      be just as safe as if you were building household furniture.

      However, a more subtle danger exists where chemicals are concerned.
      Composite structures require handling of chemical resins that are
      more exotic that simple adhesives. Paint systems also require extra
      care. Epoxies and Polyurethane finishes pose the worst problem.

      Epoxies emit fumes that, while annoying, seem generally harmless
      at first. But after exposure, your body builds an allergic reaction
      to the substance. Once that threshold has been crossed, you will
      be "sensitized" for the rest of your life. The isocyanate content
      of polyurethane paint can trigger severe respiratory spasms once
      you become sensitized to them. Again, the reaction potential never
      goes away. Some paint and primer products also have carcinogenic
      potentials as well.

      The solution is skin and respiratory protection, and good
      ventilation of the shop. *All* paints require at least filter
      respiration, isocyanate based paints require a fresh-air system as
      well. Wear protective gloves and eyewear. Above all, put an
      exhaust fan in your shop and use it, so as not to affect the whole
      household.

      Before you open an unfamiliar substance, read *all* the supplier's
      warnings about protection. If you don't understand them, the
      supplier should be happy to explain the requirements. Whatever you
      do, *please* don't ignore those precautions.

      You may invest years and thousands of dollars in your airplane.
      Make sure you're still healthy enough to fly it when the time
      comes.

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Subject: Choosing a project

Q320: What design should I choose?

A:    It's all up to the individual, but I'd highly suggest that you pay
      particular attention to the following 2 items:

      (1) Your desired mission for your airplane.
      (2) Your available resources (money, space, ability, etc.)

      Once you've a realistic and unemotional (!) handle on these items,
      start checking out designs until you find 2 or 3 designs that fit
      your situation best. Then go ahead and start checking out
      differences between them. Don't dwell too much on factors like
     "I've never done any welding" since you're going to have to learn
      to do lots of things you never considered before. Also, designers'
      claims for performance are often "stretched" a bit, so wait to
      talk to owners before making any final decisions.

      When you're at this point, it's time to start checking out real
      aircraft. This is where the fun begins....

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Subject: Evaluating types

Q321: Where can I see one of my choices, and can I fly one?

A:    Oshkosh is great place to see virtually everything side-by-side,
      but it's not the best place to take a ride because of traffic. If
      you do go to OSH, there will be builders' forums, dinners, and
      parties for type-specific gatherings. Make sure you take advantage
      of these. Same thing goes for Sun'n'Fun if you can make that
      instead.

      Smaller fly-ins may be better for taking a ride *if* your favorite
      type shows up. If your pet design is a little more obscure, it may
      take some effort.

      Once you've expressed interest in a type (usually by buying the
      $10-$20 "info pack"), the seller may provide you with the addresses
      & phones of customers who are willing to demo. This is not as
      unusual as one might think - builders often love to show off their
      toys! But if the design is a single seater, forget the ride.

      For most popular kit airplanes, the companies usually keep a
      demonstrator around. You will probably have to go to them unless
      they are "touring" your area giving demos.

      Some people do actually build and fly aircraft without ever having
      seen or ridden in one. But if there's a way to avoid that, do!

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Subject: Completion time

Q322: How long will it take to finish?

A:    Always longer than you think! A well-known writer in homebuilt
      topics is often quoted as saying "Firewall-forward is half the
      work", and "The jobs you thought were simple take forever, and the
      jobs you thought were tough turn out to be easy".

      Designers often try to minimize their estimates of completion time
      for obvious reasons. And time varies significantly with builder
      skill and experience. So the best way to estimate this is to talk
      to other builders who have finished their projects.

      For simple fixed-gear kits, 500-1500 hours seems common. For
      complex kit airplanes (such as retractables) 1500-3000 is more
      realistic. For plans-built airplanes, anywhere from 1000-8000+
      hours are involved. All of these numbers are highly dependent on
      the type, and on builder skills.

      Don't be too dependant on "goal fixation", take the time to do the
      job right. Above all, don't push it to try and get finished for a
      major fly-in. The risks aren't worth it. Besides, the better
      attention you pay to small details will make you feel all that
      much better when you do fly it to a big event.

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Subject: Completion cost

Q323: How do I know if I can afford it?

A:    Well, if you have to ask....

      The "nickel & dime" costs in construction can really add up fast.
      Generally, if the cost of a kit is already a real stretch, you have
      a problem. Sometimes the finished cost of a kit airplane will exceed
      twice the cost of the kit itself.

      Plan for this. Add up all the costs you can think of, then add 20%
      for the stuff you *didn't* know about. Plan for contingencies: if
      you make a mistake covering a wing, you may have to redo it (the
      price of learning how). Be realistic with your estimations.

      Scratch building is a little easier in that your expectations have
      to be lowered. You expect a certain monthly amount to be spent
      towards supplies, so you simply buy what you can afford, and hope
      that it stays ahead of your building speed. You know that you're
      trading time for money, and since completion is so far away it
      doesn't seem so obvious.

      Again, talk to other builders, and be honest with yourself about
      what you can afford. An awful lot of projects never get finished
      because the money supply ran out.

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Subject: Builder requirements

Q324: What tools and facilities will I need?

A:    Many designers will specify the tools needed for construction in
      their particular case. Again (sorry!) other builders are also a
      good source.

      Every builder will need a set of basic mechanics tools. Nothing
      fancy, but cheap tools often cost you money and time too. Another
      shop accessory almost everyone needs is a small portable (or big :)
      air compressor. For painting, to cleaning parts, to driving rivets,
      to general shop cleanup, compressed air is a welcome asset. A small
      variable speed power drill is another virtual necessity.

      A small grinder and a drill press are other useful items. For wood,
      a small table saw and bandsaw are indispensable. An orbital sander
      is needed for wood and composite finishing. Wood builders simply
      *never* have enough clamps, or so it seems. There are many, many
      other items which are often nice, but not necessarily mandatory.

      Builders often get quite carried away with tools, and its true that
      they can make a job easier and faster. But if you're in a squeeze
      for a particularly expensive tool, think about how often you will
      use it. It's entirely possible that you're better off renting one,
      or borrowing one from a friend.

      It's often amazing to hear of the places airplanes have been
      created. One grand-champion airplane from the '92 season was built
      on the owners back patio! But the favorite shop by far is the
      ubiquitous suburban garage. Most airplanes can have the majority
      of the work done on components in the garage, usually moving to
      the hangar at the final assembly stage.

      Whatever space you use, make sure it's well lighted and ventilated.
      Composite aircraft may require winter heat in order for resins to
      cure properly. Above all, make sure you can get the assembly *out*
      of the shop before you start. More than one builder has had to
      "modify" his basement to extract a completed wing....

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Subject: Marital discord

Q325: Will my marriage survive?

A:    This is too often the sad joke on the prop-tags at fly-ins: "Cost:
      $64000 plus Linda" or "Brenda's Nightmare" placarded on the panel.
      We've also heard of cases where a choice had to be made between the
      lover and the airplane, and the plane won. Such is the magnet of
      aviation....

      Discuss this at length with your significant other. Explain the
      commitment and be truthful. If they fly, great! But if not,
      seriously weigh the situation and enter with his or her blessing.

      Talk it over well with the kids too, if you have them. Some of them
      thrill at the idea of building "our very own plane". Others will
      think you've lost your mind. Kids can be great helpers too. What
      better way to prove to them the practical value of education?

      Consider establishing a planned work schedule. This does two
      things, it lets the family know when you will be available, and
      it helps keep your work habits consistent (keeping you on track
      to finish it).

      Once started, don't forget dinners out, long walks, helping the
      kids with homework, and bathing the dog. They all need you too.
      Have the number of the nearest florist on the shop wall, just in
      case.

      Then again, sometimes sanding the perfect finish on an elevator
      can make a lousy day disappear in a hurry...

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Subject: Maintenance cost

Q326: How do my maintenance costs compare to a certified airplane?

A:    Probably lower for the homebuilt, but it's not an absolute
      guarantee. Parts prices will be far less, and if you're the
      original builder, labor cost is zero. But if your engine
      installation or wiring has problems, expensive parts can break in
      a hurry.

      Take care of it, and it should take care of you.

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Subject: Experimental Aircraft Association

Q327: Who is the EAA, and what do they offer me?
      How can I join, and are there any local builder clubs?

A:    The Experimental Aircraft Association was formed in the '50s for
      the purpose of sharing information amongst homebuilders. Originally
      regional in scope, the EAA rapidly grew in later years. EAA
      headquarters in Oshkosh WI is the sponsor and site of the annual
      aviation party now known worldwide simply as "Oshkosh".

      EAAs political involvement is somewhat different from the AOPA. The
      AOPA was formed in support of all types of pilots, and tends to be
      more of a pilot aid and lobbying organization, while the EAA
      focuses more on building and flying for sport. This is not to say
      that they don't take a political stance for their membership,
      however. They have  been active in the area of simplified
      certification requirements for new training aircraft, and they had
      a part in the creation of auto-fuel STC's for certified light
      aircraft. Frankly, if you're a pilot, both organizations deserve
      your support.

      The foundation of EAA's membership support is through the
      organization of hundreds of local "chapters" where members get
      together on a routine basis.

      Some chapters have club-wide projects, some stress education, and
      some are only social in function. Most have at least one "Technical
      Counselor" that can help you with your project, or provide
      inspections. Involvement with a chapter is not a bad idea if you're
      just getting started.

      I can't stress the function of the Tech Counselor enough. If
      you're about to begin a project, you will need someone to check
      out your work and sign the construction log to effect. The
      sooner you get to know these people, the better off you'll be.

      The membership office is at (800)322-2412. The general office
      number is (414)426-4800. If you join, they will provide local
      chapter info upon request. Their address is:

      EAA Aviation Center
      P.O. Box 3086
      Oshkosh, WI 54903-3086
      http://www.eaa.org/

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Subject: Parts and Supplies

Q328: Where can I find parts or materials for my project?

A.    Grab any homebuilder's magazine and scan the advertisements.
      There are pleny of outfits just itching to set you up.

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Subject: Books

Q329: Can I find more written info?

A:    First, join the EAA.  Among other benefits, they have an
      extensive catalog of books covering homebuilding.   Anything
      writen by Tony Bingelis is a good start.

      Available from the FAA (call your local FSDO) and suggested:

      AC 20-27D - Certification and Operation of Amateur-Built Aircraft.

      AC 90-89  - Amateur-Built aircraft Flight Testing Handbook.


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Subject: Computer Info

Q330: Are there any BBS'es where I can get more info?

A:    The FAA runs the "Experimental Safety BBS" in Oke City. Access is
      free, and usage is anonymous if desired. The service is provided
      to the homebuilt community as an effort to help disseminate
      information about potential safety problems with experimental
      aircraft. A list of "51% Approved" kits is online, and a list of
      most AD's on certified engines and accessories commonly used in
      homebuilts is also available.

      The number is (800)426-3814 @ 2400-N-8-1, after working hours.
      The password is "safety". (Sorry, there is no Internet access).

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Subject: Other builders

Q331: Is there anyone on Usenet who knows about the GarageRocket 432?

A:    There is a "builders list" regularly reposted to
      rec.aviation.homebuilt.  Most, if not all, will be quite
      willing to talk about their project.


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Subject: Finding Assistance:

Q332: I'm having trouble with construction, where can I get help?

A:    If you're having trouble with plans or type-specific details:

      The first place to check is with the kit or plans supplier. They
      may be able to assist over the phone, or direct you to someone in
      your area who has been through this before. This also allows the
      supplier to know where the weak spots in their documentation are
      so that it can be fixed later.

      The local EAA chapter may know of other builders of your type
      nearby, or there may even be a type club in the area. Check with
      these groups also, they'll be glad to assist.

      If you're stuck on construction technique (welding, painting, etc):

      Again, check with the local EAA chapter for someone who has some
      experience with the technique causing you trouble. All of us end up
      learning a few skills in the course of construction, so don't be
      afraid to ask for help when it's needed. Remember, you'll be
      trusting your life to the airplane, so learn to do it right.

      Certain skills will require practice, so please don't run right out
      and try things on a new airframe first. If you're learning to weld
      for instance, sacrifice some tubing and practice on it until the
      quality of your workmanship becomes acceptable. It will be cheaper
      and easier in the long run. Save the samples also, the inspector
      will feel better looking at a "destructible" sample.

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Subject: Homebuilt Aircraft Financing

Q333: How can I finance my kit purchase?

A:   The best way is to select a kit that either builds from scratch
     or is available as subkits.  Financing increases your cost quite
     a bit.

     Netters have identified two companies which have financing
     available for homebuilders.  Here are some of their terms, as supplied
     in October, 1995:

     NAFCO/EAA Finance Plan
     (800) 999-3712

     $10,000 minimum loan, no maximum.  They'll fund 70% of the total cost
     for up to five years, then will extend the loan until aircraft
     completion.  Loan rate is based on the prime rate and the amount
     borrowed:  3% over prime for $10,000-$15,000, 2.5% over prime for $15K
     to $25K, 2% over prime for loans $25K to $50K, and prime +1.5% for
     over $50,000.

     Green Tree Financial Corporation
     (800) 851-1367 extension 3692

     $5,000 minimum, no maximum.  Finance 90% of the total cost for up to 15
     years.  Interest rate for less than $25,000 is currently 13%, $25K< is
     11%.

     Other options include:  Borrow from 401K finance plan (~8% interest),
     signature loan from credit union (the current rate at my CU is
     11.75%), or home equity loan (~8.5%).
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Q334: Can I take lessons/get my license in my homebuilt?

A.   Like so many things in aviation, the answer is, "Yes, but..." There is no regulations to prevent your taking lessons or your flight test in a homebuilt aircraft.  Your ability to do so will depend on finding an instructor willing to instruct in a homebuilt, as well as an Examiner willing to administer the test in the aircraft.  Neither is automatic, and you'll have little recourse if they refuse. If you would like to take lessons in your homebuilt, ask around at your local EAA chapter.   Many EAA members are instructors, and would probably be more willing.  My local chapters, for instance,
include several CFIs who administer BFRs in members' homebuilts.